How long should a freezer run?
A freezer switches on and off in cycles. It runs longer after the door has been opened, after new food goes in and on hot days. It should still switch off regularly. If it never stops, the compressor is working too hard and the freezer will use more power and wear out faster.
Common causes
These are the usual causes, starting with the ones you can check yourself.
At a glance
| Cause | Who fixes it |
|---|---|
| The door seal is worn or the door is not closing | You can check this |
| The condenser coils are dusty | You can check this |
| There is no space around the freezer | You can check this |
| Heavy frost on the walls | You can check this |
| The thermostat is faulty | Technician |
| Low refrigerant or a failing compressor | Technician |
- 1
The door seal is worn or the door is not closing
You can check thisWarm, damp air leaks in through a torn or flattened seal, so the freezer never gets cold enough to switch off. Frost near the door is a sign.
- 2
The condenser coils are dusty
You can check thisThe coils at the back or underneath release heat. When they are covered in dust, the freezer cannot get rid of the heat and runs longer.
- 3
There is no space around the freezer
You can check thisA freezer pushed tight against a wall or in a hot garage cannot cool itself. Leave a gap at the back and sides as the manual shows.
- 4
Heavy frost on the walls
You can check thisThick frost insulates the cooling plates, so the freezer works harder. A freezer that is not frost-free needs a manual defrost when the frost gets thick.
- 5
The thermostat is faulty
TechnicianA thermostat that sticks or reads wrong keeps the compressor running even when the freezer is cold enough. Food that is frozen very hard is a sign.
- 6
Low refrigerant or a failing compressor
TechnicianIf the freezer runs constantly and is not as cold as it should be, it may have a refrigerant leak or a compressor that is losing strength.
What you can safely check yourself
- Test the sealClose the door on a sheet of paper in several places. It should hold firmly. Clean the seal with warm soapy water.
- Clean the coilsUnplug the freezer and gently vacuum or brush the dust off the condenser coils.
- Check the space around itMove the freezer so air can circulate at the back and sides, away from a stove or direct sun.
- Defrost if neededIf the frost is thicker than about a finger width, empty and defrost the freezer.
- Check the settingMake sure the thermostat is not on the coldest setting.
When to stop and call a technician
The freezer is running constantly and getting warmer, you hear clicking every few minutes, the back is very hot, or there is an oily patch near the pipes. Unplug the freezer before cleaning the coils. Do not chip ice off with a sharp tool, as you can puncture the cooling pipes.
Still having trouble with your freezer?
Our technician comes to your home, usually the same day. The R450 call-out falls away if you go ahead, and you get a fixed price in writing before any work starts.
How a technician diagnoses it
- Temperature checkThe technician measures the freezer temperature and how long the compressor runs.
- Seal and airflow checkThe seal, the condenser and the ventilation are checked.
- Thermostat and system testThe thermostat is tested and the sealed system is checked for a leak.
- Fixed priceYou get a fixed price in writing before any part is replaced.
Is it worth repairing?
Usually worth repairing when
- The fault is a seal, thermostat or start relay
- The cabinet and inner walls are in good condition
- The freezer is a large or chest model
Consider replacing when
- The compressor has failed on an older freezer
- The cabinet is rusted through
- There is a leak in a pipe built into the walls