What does it mean when the fridge is not cooling but the freezer is working?
It means the fridge still makes cold, but the cold air is not reaching the fridge compartment. A frost-free fridge freezer has one cooling coil, the evaporator, behind the freezer back panel. The evaporator fan blows that cold air through a damper into the fridge.
- Thick frost on the freezer back panel: the evaporator is iced up.
- No fan sound in the freezer: the evaporator fan has stopped.
- Fan running: the damper is stuck or a vent is blocked.
If both compartments are warm, see why a fridge is not cooling at all.
Common causes of a freezer working but the fridge not cold
The most common causes are blocked vents, a failed evaporator fan and an evaporator blocked with ice.
At a glance
| Cause | Typical sign | Who fixes it |
|---|---|---|
| Blocked air vents | Food packed against a vent | You can check this |
| Leaking door seal | Condensation, door closes without grip | You can check this |
| Failed evaporator fan | No fan sound in the freezer | Technician |
| Damper stuck closed | Fan runs, no air from fridge vent | Technician |
| Failed defrost heater | Thick frost on freezer back panel | Technician |
| Failed defrost thermostat, timer or board | Same frost, heater tests good | Technician |
- 1
The air vents are blocked
You can check thisVents in the fridge compartment let the cold air in and out. Food packed against a vent stops the airflow. Move food a few centimetres clear of every vent.
- 2
The fridge door seal is leaking
You can check thisThe door seal keeps warm room air out. The signs of a leak are condensation inside and a door that closes without grip. Clean the seal, and have a torn one replaced.
- 3
The evaporator fan has failed
TechnicianThe evaporator fan moves cold air from the freezer coil into the fridge. The sign is no fan sound or airflow in the freezer. A technician replaces the fan motor.
- 4
The air damper is stuck closed
TechnicianThe air damper is a flap in the duct between the freezer and the fridge. The sign is a running fan but no cold air from the fridge vent. A technician replaces the damper.
- 5
The defrost heater has failed
TechnicianThe defrost heater melts frost off the evaporator at regular intervals. When it burns out, ice blocks the coil and thick frost covers the freezer back panel. A technician replaces it as a routine fridge repair.
- 6
The defrost thermostat, timer or control board has failed
TechnicianThe defrost thermostat or sensor on the evaporator switches the heater, and a timer or the control board starts each defrost. If any of them fails, the heater never switches on. The ice looks the same, so a technician finds the failed part with a meter.
What you can safely check yourself
You can check the vents, door seal and frost without opening any panel. Switch off and unplug at the wall before touching anything.
- Clear the ventsMove all food and containers away from the vents in the fridge compartment.
- Test the door sealClose the door on a strip of paper. It should grip all the way around.
- Listen for the fanWith the compressor running, hold in the freezer door switch if there is one. You should hear the fan.
- Look at the freezer back panelThin, even frost is normal. Thick frost or bulging ice points to a defrost fault.
- Do a full manual defrostUnplug the fridge and leave both doors open for 24 hours. If the fault returns within weeks, a defrost part has failed.
When to stop and call a technician
Stop and call a technician if you smell burning, if the fridge trips the power or if water is near the plug or wiring. Stop if the fridge warms again after a full defrost. Never chip ice with a knife or melt it with a heater. Do not open the control board, mains wiring or the sealed refrigeration system.
Still having trouble with your fridge?
Our technician comes to your home, usually the same day. The R450 call-out falls away if you go ahead, and you get a fixed price in writing before any work starts.
How a technician diagnoses a warm fridge with a working freezer
- Measures both compartmentsA probe thermometer confirms the freezer is near -18 °C and the fridge is warm.
- Inspects the evaporatorThe freezer back panel comes off. Solid ice means a defrost fault, and frost on only part of the coil means low refrigerant.
- Tests the defrost circuitThe heater, thermal fuse and defrost thermostat are tested with a multimeter, and a defrost is forced.
- Tests the fan and damperThe fan motor, damper and fridge sensor are tested.
Fridge not cooling but freezer works on a two-compressor or two-evaporator model
On these models the fridge has its own cooling coil, so a warm fridge points to the fridge circuit only. A two-evaporator fridge has a second evaporator, and often a second fan, behind the fridge back wall. Ice on that coil or a failed fan warms the fridge alone. A two-compressor model has a separate fridge compressor, which can fail while the freezer runs normally.
Is a fridge that is not cooling worth repairing?
Repair usually makes sense when
- The fault is a fan motor, damper or defrost part
- The freezer still reaches about -18 °C
- The cabinet, liner and door seals are sound
Replacement is worth considering when
- The refrigerant leak is inside the insulated cabinet wall
- The compressor has failed on an old fridge
- The cabinet is rusted or the liner is cracked