What does it mean when a stove plate is not working?
A stove plate that is not working has no supply, a broken element or a failed control.
- One plate out: the fault is in that plate, its regulator or its wiring.
- Stove top not working at all: the isolator or breaker is off.
- Plate not getting hot enough: part of the element has failed or the pot sits unevenly.
- Full heat on every setting: the energy regulator has failed.
Common causes of a stove plate not getting hot
A stove plate not getting hot has a supply, element, control or wiring fault. You can check the first two causes.
At a glance
| Cause | Typical sign | Who fixes it |
|---|---|---|
| Isolator or breaker | Nothing on the stove works | You can check this |
| Pot not flat | Slow heating | You can check this |
| Plate element | Plate cold or weak | Technician |
| Energy regulator | Full heat or none | Technician |
| Connector block or wiring | Cuts in and out, burning smell | Technician |
| Ceramic hob limiter | Zone cold or cuts out early | Technician |
| Cracked glass | Visible crack | Technician |
- 1
The isolator switch or breaker is off
You can check thisThe wall isolator switch and the stove breaker supply every plate and the oven. With either off, nothing works. Reset once. Repeated tripping is covered under oven tripping the power.
- 2
The pot does not sit flat on the plate
You can check thisA solid plate or ceramic hob heats the pot by contact. A warped or undersized pot touches only part of the surface, so it heats slowly. Test with a flat, heavy-based pot.
- 3
The plate element has failed
TechnicianThe plate element is the heating wire inside a solid plate, spiral plate or ceramic hob zone. A broken wire leaves the plate cold, and a spiral plate can show a blister or break. Many solid plates have several coils, so one failed coil leaves the plate weak. A technician replaces the plate.
- 4
The energy regulator has failed
TechnicianThe energy regulator is the control switch behind the knob. It cycles the plate on and off to set the heat. A failed regulator gives full heat on every setting, or none. A technician replaces it.
- 5
The connector block or wiring has burnt
TechnicianA ceramic connector block joins the plate to its supply wires. A loose connection overheats and burns. The plate cuts in and out, often with a burning smell. A technician replaces the block and wire ends.
- 6
The ceramic hob limiter has failed
TechnicianEach ceramic hob zone has a limiter that protects the glass from overheating and often switches the residual heat light. A failed limiter leaves the zone cold or cuts it out early. A technician replaces it.
- 7
The glass top is cracked
TechnicianThe glass seals the live elements below from spills. A crack lets liquid reach them. Stop using the hob and switch off at the isolator. A technician replaces the glass.
What you can safely check yourself
- Count the dead platesTry every plate and the oven. One dead plate is a plate fault.
- Check the isolator and breakerSwitch the wall isolator on and reset the stove breaker once.
- Check the control lockOn a touch-control hob, release the key or lock symbol.
- Try a different potUse a flat, heavy-based pot that covers the plate.
- Compare settingsRun the plate on low and high. Note whether the heat changes.
- Look at the plateWith the isolator off and the stove cold, look for breaks on a spiral plate and cracks in the glass.
When to stop and call a technician
Switch off at the isolator and stop if you smell burning, see smoke or the power trips. Stop if a plate stays on with the knob at off, if the glass is cracked, or if liquid has boiled into the controls. Do not lift the hob or open the control panel.
Still having trouble with your stove?
Our technician comes to your home, usually the same day. The R450 call-out falls away if you go ahead, and you get a fixed price in writing before any work starts.
How a technician diagnoses a stove plate not working
- Isolates the stoveThe supply is switched off and proved dead before the hob is opened.
- Tests the plateEach coil is measured for resistance and for leakage to earth.
- Tests the energy regulatorThe contacts are checked for switching and cycling at each setting.
- Inspects the connectionsThe connector block, wire ends and limiter are checked for burning.
Why is my stove not working after a power outage?
A stove that is not working after a power outage usually has a tripped breaker or earth leakage unit. The surge when power returns can trip them, so reset once. If only the oven is dead, the clock needs setting. See oven not heating up. A stove that stays dead may have surge damage and needs stove repair.
Why is my glass top stove not working?
A glass top stove that is not working has the same faults as other plates, plus its own. On a ceramic hob, check the control lock, then suspect the zone element, limiter or regulator. An induction hob heats only when it detects a suitable pan. It needs cookware with a magnetic base.
Is a stove with a dead plate worth repairing?
Repair usually makes sense when
- One or two plates or regulators have failed
- The oven, body and wiring are sound
- Parts for the model are available
Replacement is worth considering when
- The glass is cracked on an old hob
- The hob wiring is burnt in several places
- Several plates and the oven have failed together